Barcelos

The Saturday after our trip down to Vila Nova de Gaia, Ann and I decided to take another trip to Barcelos.  This time to make a day of it.  

Our first goal, of course, was to do some grocery shopping at the Saturday market.  Not only did we buy a ton of vegetables for literally pocket change, we bought several plants for the house.  It’s time to start turning it into a home.

If you recall from our previous trip through Barcelos, they’re having a big chicken exhibit.  Now I say chicken, but it’s actually a rooster, and they call it a cock.  I’ll stick with rooster, which is now the official symbol of Portugal’s tourist industry!  Well, the tourist bureau was open and we had a great chat with one of the hosts, who told us about several interesting sights, recommended coming back on a Thursday when they have their big market, and (at my request) told us a few of her favorite restaurants.  

After admiring the roosters in the exhibit, we started wandering the streets.  We were scouting out things to take home, but were definitely not interested in all of the touristy shops that lined the streets.  Then we saw an apron in a doorway.  We walked over and saw down the hall, another apron and an arrow.  So we headed in and up some steps.  Suddenly a woman yelled up at us (after a second we realized not at us, but to us) as she rushed up to unlock the door.  Lo and behold, the real stuff.  So we bought a hand-painted iron cock (I just had to say that).

And not just one, but two chicken aprons (one red, one blue).

And some rooster espresso cups we’ll save for guests (yet another reason to come visit!).

We had some time to spare, so we wandered the streets much like I’d done the day previously in Gaia, and checked out a few of the sights the tourist board lady recommended.  We were pretty much more interested in the streets than the sights - too many people.

Barcelos is a wonderful town, very walkable. And, of course, a lovely place to make photographs.

And like many of the towns in Portugal, full of history several layers deep.

While Barcelos may be a tourist destination, everywhere you see that people have lived here for years and continue to do so.

Sometimes things fall into disrepair and take awhile to get fixed up, but that just gives those of us willing to stick our heads into an open door an opportunity to make a photograph.  

Eventually we stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants the tourist board woman recommended.  She was good for her word.  The meal was delicious!

Afterwards we needed to walk a bit to settle lunch down.  We headed over to an old fortified area that overlooked the river.

And there we found the monument to the Legend of the Cock, which is what made the rooster famous in Portuguese history.  Long story short - a pilgrim was passing through the city when there was a big theft in town.  Everyone of course suspected him, and he was found guilty.  Death by hanging.  The night before the sentence was to be carried out, he asked to see the magistrate.  They took him to the magistrate’s house where there was a big party going on.  He proclaimed his innocence and while everyone shrugged him off, he looked over where there was a roasted cock on a table and he said, “As sure as I am innocent, that cock will crow when I am hanged.”  They left the chicken on the table, undisturbed that night.

You can guess the rest of the story.  They tried to hang him, but the noose wasn’t super tight, so when he dropped he didn’t die right away; the cooked chicken crowed and they immediately set him free.  He continued his pilgrimage and the following year returned on the date of the hanging to be welcomed by the city.  On his return they constructed the monument below. 

Yeah, that’s a guy with a noose around his neck on the monument!  

Anyway, we spent a good while at the old ruins by the monument, which led to some interesting photos.

We were in no rush and the easy moving around helped supper settle.

And no, we did not lift up the coffin lid to see if anything was inside.

We eventually started wandering our way back towards the car, passing the place where we photographed the interior earlier.  Except this time I noticed the interesting colors on the outside of the building.

Sometimes it’s surprising what you miss the first time around.

We definitely enjoyed the day there and there’s no doubt we’ll be back.  We definitely have to check out the big Thursday market!